A Closer Look at Neroli in Perfume.

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If you’ve ever looked at the notes in a fresh citrus or floral perfume, there’s a good chance you’ve come across neroli. But unless you already know what neroli smells like, seeing it on a fragrance list doesn’t tell you very much.

And if you’ve seen orange blossom listed in other perfumes, there’s an important difference between the two.

This article discusses what neroli smells like in a fragrance and the best notes to pair it with.

What Does Neroli Smell Like in Perfume?

Neroli has a fresh, citrusy and floral scent with green, slightly bitter undertones. It has the brightness you’d expect from orange, but with a more delicate white-floral aroma. In perfumes, neroli adds freshness without smelling as sharp as your average citrus note.

Where Neroli Comes From

Neroli oil comes from the small white flowers of the bitter orange tree, Citrus aurantium. The flowers are steam distilled to produce the essential oil used in fragrance.

Interestingly, the same tree gives perfumers several different ingredients. Bitter orange oil comes from the fruit peel, while petitgrain is usually produced from the leaves and twigs. Neroli comes from the flowers.

That’s why describing neroli as an orange scent isn’t quite accurate because its citrus character is there, but so are floral and green notes.

Neroli vs Orange Blossom

While neroli and orange blossom come from the same flowers, they aren’t interchangeable in perfumery.

The difference comes from how they’re extracted. 

Neroli essential oil is produced through steam distillation, while orange blossom absolute is typically obtained through solvent extraction. The resulting fragrance materials have different scent profiles.

Neroli tends to be fresher, greener and more citrusy. Orange blossom absolute is generally richer, sweeter and more floral.

If you like white florals but prefer them to be fresher, neroli will likely be the one you naturally gravitate towards.

Fragrance Notes That Pair Well With Neroli

Deliciously versatile, neroli works with a surprisingly wide range of fragrance notes, depending on which side of its citrus-floral character you want to bring out:

• Bergamot, lemon and mandarin: Bring out neroli’s citrusy freshness and create a brighter opening.
• Jasmine and white florals: Emphasise neroli’s floral character and give the fragrance a fuller floral scent.
• Lavender and aromatic herbs: Work with neroli’s greener qualities for a fresher, more aromatic result.
• Musk: Softens neroli’s sharper citrus and green notes, particularly as the fragrance dries down.
• Sandalwood, cedar and other woods: Add warmth and depth underneath neroli while allowing its freshness to remain noticeable.

Getting to Know Neroli

As you can see, neroli smells like a blend of citrus and white florals, which is exactly what makes it useful in perfumery. It can bring the freshness of orange without smelling purely fruity, while its green aroma keeps the floral character from becoming too rich or sweet.

Now that you know more about the distinctive neroli citrus-floral smell, you’ll probably start spotting it in far more of the perfumes you already wear!